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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.